Shōchū - The Most Consumed Spirit in Japan
But seriously, why the hell have we always known about sake but never shōchū? The national spirit of Japan has been produced there for the last 500 years. Shōchū is most widely produced, sold and consumed spirit in Japan and is the countries most sold both in volume and dollars.
The process is highly regulated and pretty much unchanged since that time and it can only be made from approved ingredients.
Part of why we don’t hear about it could be that the Japanese are obsessed with it. They only export 2% if it, and most of that goes to east Asia. In comparison Mexico exports 70% of tequila to the US. Alone! Japan is making more Shōchū than Mexico is making tequila! A small import company founded in March 2020 - Honkaku Spirits is changing the narrative on shōchū.
Selefant Kokuto Shōchū
It’s not the best example of the category because it’s rare and only made in one place. But it’s nice, delicate and a great starting point. This family has been distilling since 1927. Selena Nishihira is President of the distillery and the youngest Master Distiller in Japan. She is the daughter of a musician who was in a glam band. She herself was in a band with a record deal until her dad got sick. She became 1 of 4 female master distillers in all of Japan.
Her family realizes the sacrifice she made, so they converted the aging warehouse into a bar and concert hall. It’s a tropical island, they make shōchū and surf.
Nishihira Shuzo's Master Distiller, She’s a visual artist, Selefant is her nickname. Her hand is on the bottle and this is the 1st bottle they’ve ever exported. Its grassy, delicate and green with an expressive cane juice flavor and and goes great in a highball. The most popular Japanese method is brining it down to 15% (1 part sochu, 1 part water) and drink it like a wine.
Mugi Hokka Barley Shōchū
The most commonly exported style- barley. The population is declining in Japan. Its the type of distill they use. Atmospheric pot still and vacuum pot still. (Craft gin) its uses when you’re trying to a fragrance you want extracted. Vacuum distilling can be 8% is made with heavily roasted barley.
It imparts toast, chocolate, cereal and black coffee, theres a milk chocolate flavor with nothing added. Ever, no additives or coloring. 100% barley single distilled on a potstill fermented with white koji.
Best served in a Sparkling Americano - Black Coffee and Soda Water.
Cold Brew or Espresso, big splash of Mugi Hokka and twist with lemon. It’s packed with flavor and stands up well to Campari so makes a killer Negroni. This is the top selling Sochu at Binnys. It also comes in a 1.8L bottle.
Colorful Honkaku Shōchū
Distilled in Miyazaki. The first master distiller to experiment with blending to create a unique balanced product. 4yrs old with sweet potatoes and black koji and a 1yr aged with white koji. Japanese sweet potato have red or white flesh and are wonderful to ferment.
Fruity and floral notes, berry forward , grape soda notes. Black White and Yellow Koji Only sold in the Miyazaki Prefecture and in Chicago. Much like allocated bourbon its only sold in one place and sells out. Serious drinkers only. Online auctions in Japan only.
Motoko Honkaku Shōchū
The longest aged Shōchū ever sent to the US. Aged in 2011, there’s a minerality reminiscent of mezcal aged in clay. The pots used are over 100 years old. This is the most complex, the most savory of the lineup. MostShōchū begins in unglazed ceramic posts and when it’s done it moves to stainless, It may go back and forth. The family home is built into the distillery. Notes of dry mushroom, white pepper and the finish is a crisp, charred sticky rice.
Yoka Ryukyu Awamori
43% still strength.Single pot still lightly filtered totally undiluted and the best mouthfeel. Thick and viscous and luxurious/ Sky is the limited as far as mixed cocktails. In some ways it drinks like a young rye or a pot distilled white rum or an agave spirt. Plug this in for the base of any classic cocktail for something fun., its a great gin substitute, makes a great Negroni.
$34.99 distilled near the capital of Okinawa.
—The Neat Pour